Nant Gewyn and Esgair Gul, Powys

There are countless rivers and streams in the Cambrian Mountains of central Wales, often forming cascades and small waterfalls, usually surrounded by stark moorland scenery, and the great majority are pathless, so hardly ever visited. Several are found on the south-facing slopes above Abergwesyn, 12 miles north of Llanwrtyd Wells, including the Nant Gewyn, which is most notable for a 0.6 mile enclosed section, Esgair Gul, where the waters flow below particularly steep slopes and a few small cliffs, through pools and falls.

Gul in Welsh means narrow, while Esgair is a ridge, specifically one composed of glacial sediment. The gorge occupies the middle section of the Nant Gewyn, the total length of which is only 1.5 miles - it joins the Afon Cammarch, near its upper end, this a much larger watercourse that eventually makes the River Irfon.

Not far below the Nant Gewyn confluence, the Afon Cammarch also has a short series of waterfalls, worthy of a quick visit. Both these drainages may be reached by tracks through a large conifer plantation, established after World War II, mostly occupying all sides of a minor plateau, Cefn Garw ('rough back'). Unlike many similar plantations in more developed areas of the UK, the tracks are not closed by gates, allowing anyone to drive along, and even camp, if desired.

Afon Cammarch

The unpaved track into the conifer plantation leaves the main road at Trallum, 3.5 miles east of Abergwesyn, curving around the west side of Cefn Garw, and up to a five-way junction, were straight on reaches the vicinity of Esgair Gul, while the second right leads further into the plantation, descending and reaching a bridge over Afon Cammarch at 1.1 miles, turning left at one junction along the way. For around 500 feet south of the roadbridge the stream flows over three of four significant cascades, with pools below, framed by dark sandstone of the Yr Allt Formation. The steep and somewhat unstable sides make the valley just little difficult to follow downstream, in some places. The stream is photogenic, framed by mature, moss-covered conifers.

Esgair Gul

From the five-way junction, the northwards track is initially flat then descends gradually to a parking place, beside a recently cleared portion of the forest. A path continues north, soon crossing the Afon Cammarch, here just a tiny stream, at an ancient ford, then through the northenmost part of the plantation, occupying a minor prominence named Esgair y Graig, and out into open moorland. Nant Gewyn is visible a short distance east, around the lower end of Esgair Gul, which can be viewed quite well from above, along the west rim, or with more effort at stream level. This is easiest in the downhill direction, walking up the rim for half a mile, descending to the stream and following it back south, through the gorge, over a nice sequence of cascades and pools. The rocks here are also dark; mudstones from the Cwmere Formation. A few more cascades can be seen beyond the lower end of the gorge, as the stream runs alongside the conifers, before joining the Afon Cammarch not far below the crossing point at the ford.